Oil changes every 2, miles may not be excessive under those circumstances. On the other hand, mostly highway driving at relatively steady speeds on flat paved and dust-free roads is the best condition for your engine and its oil.
The wider the range of viscosities on the oil, the less durable and resistant it is to 'Viscosity Index Breakdown'. For example, 10W oil does not have as much 'V.
Improver' as 5W, so there are fewer additives to be broken down by the shearing of the engine. In fact, 10W is by far the most 'durable' multi-vis oil there is. You should try to stay away from the wider spreads like 15W, 20W and especially the 5W Also, thicker is not better, no matter what your mechanic or engineer told you.
An engine with thick 'oil' produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing to shorter engine life. A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be 'pumped-up' to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions, better economy. And the engine will last longer too! This has been proven numerous times in test after test, by many different and highly respected testing facilities.
Unfortunately, the rule that 'you can't teach an old dog new tricks' prevents many 'experts' from accepting the facts. In the years since, I have been working in the automotive lubrication industry, 15 years now have been on the engineering boards of several major motor oil manufacturers.
I feel lucky that I was able to 'see the light'. I've ran a variety of different oils in my 99 sc1. The one I keep coming back to is valvoline high mileage. Spendy but doesn't seem to burn up as fast.
I buy crates of Chevron Supreme 5w30 conventional whenever the Costco coupons for it appear. Much good conventional wisdom on conventional oils is quickly becoming obsolete. Many of today's 5w30 have less VII than a decade ago's 10w I no longer bother with 10w30 in the summers and have simplified my life to my Chevron 5w30 in big cases for the oil burning Saturns and Mobil 1 5w30 for the wife's amazingly non-oil burning Odyssey k miles.
Originally Posted by nick. Since its getting cold here now being a new Staurn owner reading oil buring threads ect i was gonna try a syn blend first No brand in paticular anyway reading post above about oil and no body mentioning Amsoil. Anyway ive ran year round in my Audi Quattros for years and years in my Quattro with , miles ive never had an Oil leak very little burn and have went way over recommend intervals.
Also i Drain and Strain the oil ,change the filter and put it back in. The third time around i would put it back into the jug and use it for my lawnmowers ect.
It was something the first owner said he was doing years ago and have countinued it for over 8 years. Yes its pricey but have never had isues. In my turbo model I use castrol dealer recommended Diffrent story automatic turbo and some leaks burn sludge issues, I have put the amsoil in every time except once out of state on a trip and i used Royal Purple on a change to drive home only thing i could get fairley easy and comparable at the time. Im a geek so i have probobly wasted money time to time on expensive things but it probobly would of been fine.
I just had great luck using it. Granted the Mann oil Filters are huge compared to most 4 door cars and i have a Amsoil dual filter system on 1 Quattro. I dnt work for them or not trying to sell never the less it does last. Originally Posted by brags.
Container Size: 5 Quart. Conventional Motor Oil Temperature: Above Oil Composition: Conventional. Oil Composition: Synthetic Blend.
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